Leh

Brief
Leh is a lovely town. Nestled along the Indus River, the town lies in a fertile valley surrounded by barren mountains. An important town in the region and the major hub for travelers coming into Ladakh, this high altitude desert is dominated by the imposing Leh Palace and the Namgyal Tsemo. Lying in the Himalayas watershed, the labyrinthine lanes and pathways of Leh snake around the parti-coloured streets of Leh Bazaar and wind on to meet the pretty Sankar and Changspa Villages that fringe the outskirts of Leh. While Changspa has important Buddhist carvings dating back to the 8th century when Ladakh was converted to Buddhism, Lehs main Buddhist place of worship is the Soma Gompa, close to the mosque commissioned by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb.

History
Lehs character changed when Ladakh was opened up to foreign tourists in 1974. Until 1947 it had close trading relations with Central Asia; yak trains would set off from the Leh Bazaar to complete the stages over the Karakoram Pass to Yarkand and Kashgar. Today Leh is an important strategic centre for India. The large military presence is a reminder that the region of Ladakh is situated along Indias sensitive borders with both Pakistan and China. Buddhism travelled along the Silk Road and the Kashmir and Ladakh feeder, which have also seen the passage of soldiers, explorers and pilgrims, forerunners of the tourists who today contribute most to the urban economy.

Culture
Although part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir, Leh in Ladakh, has distinct cultural geographical terrain, religion and lifestyle. Lying in the Himalaya watershed, this high altitude desert is dominated by the imposing Leh Palace and the Namgyal Tsemo. The labyrinthine lanes and pathways of Leh, snake around the parti-coloured streets of Leh Bazaar and wind on to meet the pretty Sankar and Changspa Villages that fringe the outskirts of Leh. In the month of May, as the first few tourists trickle in, the lazy market streets shrug off their yearly winter slumber, and gear up to entice the innumerable blonde and dark heads that start to bob up and down the towns many alleys. These streets resonates with smatterings of Hebrew, German, French, Spanish, Swahili, Chinese, English and Ladakhi, to name a few, especially during July and August when Leh turns into a clip from one of the less controversial Benetton advertisements.

Climate & Geogaphical Location
Summers are cold and chilly while winters are snow bound. Leh is located in a side valley just to the north of the Indus Valley and around 434 Km. from the Vale of Kashmir to Ladakh.

How to Reach
Leh is well connected by rail, road and air. By air, the airport is 7 Km from Leh and operates flights to Delhi, Jammu, Chandigarh and Srinagar during the season, usually from June to August. From  the airport bus services are available. By rail, the nearest railheads are at Chandigarh (280 Km) and at Jogindernagar (190 Km) to reach Manali, which is well connected to all the parts of the country. To reach Leh, take a taxi or bus to cover the stretch. By road, there are two overland routes to the region - one from Srinagar (open approximately from June to October) and the other from Manali (open approximately from July to September). It takes 2 days by the overland routes to reach Ladakh. A regular bus service operates on the routes; cabs can also be hired from both Srinagar and Manali for the journey. Although this road is usually open from the end of May to October end, it may be closed earlier or later due to unseasonal snowfall. When open army convoys get the right of way over tourist vehicles, as the road is a vital link for carrying supplies to Leh.

Tourist Places

Leh Palace

Built in the 17th century, this is a replica of the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. The palace however is not lived in and is in a state of disrepair.

Lamayuru

The oldest holy site in Ladakh, Lamayuru was once a lake. A lama blessed it after which, as legend goes, the water of the lake receded upto the mountains leaving place for the monastery to be built. It is also the free zone of Ladakh since not even a criminal can be apprehended in this place. Now mostly in ruins, only the main hall exists today and houses numerous thangkas.

Spituk Gompa

Perched precariously on a hilltop overlooking the Indus River, Spituk is 8Km from Leh. The prayer rooms have some impressive statues of the Buddha. Many icons and fine - thangkas belonging to the Gelukpa order are found in this 15th century monastery. It also houses a collection of ancient masks, antique arms, and an awe-inspiring image of Mahakala. The face of the Kali image is kept covered and revealed only at the annual function in January every two years.


Shey Palace and Gompa

Nearly 15Km south of Leh, Shey was the former summer palace of the kings of Ladakh. The Shey Gompa has a good library, the best collection of thangkas (Buddhist scroll paintings), mani walls (walls with sacred inscriptions) and is famous for its 7.5 meter high gilded gold-plated copper statue of Sakyamuni Buddha.


Thiksey Gompa

About 17Km south of Leh, spectacularly sited and one of the finest example of Ladakhi architecture, Thiksey is one of the largest and most impressive gompas. There are several temples in this gompa containing images, stupas and exquisite wall paintings. The major attraction of this Buddhist monastery is the huge statue of Lord Buddha enshrined here. A two- storeyed statue, it has the main prayer hall around its shoulder. It belongs to the Gelukpa order and has a fantastic library, beautiful thangkas and a Maitreya Temple.


Hemis Gompa

40 Km from Leh, Hemis is one of the richest, biggest and most famous gompa in Ladakh. Its popularity stems from the major annual festival held during summer in honour of their Guru Padma Sambhavas birth anniversary. The Hemis Festival falls sometime in June-July every year. Built during 1630, the Hemis Gompa monastery is home to the Brokpa order. It has numerous thangkas, silver chortens studded with precious/semi precious stones and various images of Buddha. Of its many frescoes, the most famous is the Wheel of Life. Close to the Hemis Gompa is the Hemis National Park. This is a high altitude park which provides sanctuary to the Snow Leopard, Shapu, Bharal, the rare black-necked crane and the Ibex.

Alchi Gompa

70 Km from Leh on banks of the Indus, is Alchi Gompa dating a thousand years back. This monastery dates back to early 10th century and has beautiful murals and wall paintings. One of its walls feature thousands of miniature-sized pictures of the Buddha. Three large sized images made of clay and painted brightly are its focal attraction.


Likir

Founded in the 11th century AD and re-dedicated to another monastic order in the 15th century AD, the earlier gompa was destroyed in a fire. The present gompa dates back to the 18th century. Skilled craftsman producing excellent thangkas, earthen pots, carved folding wooden stools etc. live in the village. Majestically situated, it commands a spectacular view.

Others

CHOGLAMSAR - An important centre for Tibetan Buddhism, its the perfect place for a crash course in the history and culture of Tibet. It also has a golf course and a polo ground.  NAMGYAL TSEMO GOMPA - This red gompa was erected in 1430 and enshrines a tall image of the Buddha. It also has a good collection of ancient manuscripts and beautiful frescoes.  SANKAR GOMPA - Barely 2Km to the north, this gompa belongs to the Gelukpa order and is dedicated to Avalokiteshvara, the Buddhist deity of Compassion. STOK - Stok was the Palace of the banished royal family. It houses a museum, which displays fabulous period costumes and Jewelry of the royalty along-with exquisite thangkas representing the life of the Sakya Muni Buddha.

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